June and July 2005 have been spent in Bahrain, Persian Gulf. Bahrain We are here to fill a summer pastorate opportunity while the normal pastor is on leave.

Some data on this interesting and unique place. Amazing what can be done where there seems to be almost nil rainfall! There are natural springs here drawing on aquifers which are under the desert in Saudi. Dubai I think has a large desalinization plant. Bahrain was one of the original oil discovery spots but now relies on supplies from Saudi to the refinery here. There is also a large aluminum smelter. Other business links are financial and speculative along with forms of tourism drawing in Arabs who like the kind of life styles here unlike Europe. A type of Beirut style of the old days. Huge families with multiple wives so consequent high population growth although the younger generation noweducated are reining this in. Rather warm outside 40-45 c but with ac not too bad. I am in an old bungalow of the mission era thick walls etc and happy enough in a room with just a fan going although adjoining rooms have ac and so some spill over effect.  The cemetery bears testimony to another Bahrain where typhoid and such diseases cut a swath through the Zwemer family and others. Today it is more likely to be diabetes, obesity and forms of malnutrition not from not enough food but poor quality feeding. A long way from the rice dates and fish of another era! The local Dr here has taken a real interest in researching and writing up history. He has a real interest in old books which he buys off an Internet site. He has books about Kashmir written by early missionaries at the turn of the century who did lots of mountain climbing amongst other things.

The environment very much the ME or Iran; the Sunni sheikhs dominating the scene lording it over the less privileged Iranian origin Bahraini: storing up future problems as the turbulent youth are unlikely to accept the unreal division of resources even though their own lives are comfortable enough.  Even now there is some turbulence as there was a demonstration with eggs and tomatoes being thrown. These are the internal challenges of a well educated population desiring easy govt type jobs but faced with a Asian work force willing to work longer and harder than they wish to. Legislation seeks to address this imbalance but the business community wants competitive advantage so gets around the regulations in classic fashion which favors them but often leaves the Asian high and dry.

The Christian community is numerous around this part; a high proportion of Indians from Kerala in the south. The Mar Thoma Church is 1200 strong with problems accommodating the people. The NEC about 250 or so in each of two groups. I am responsible for a service on Friday with a wider younger group, more contemporary music etc, and then the older classic service on Sunday night.  Have also had some overflow into Urdu and Nepali groups. My language though rusty has thankfully come back enough to make the gap.

After Church last Sunday night a white haired moustached heavy looking man greeted me and this was Ephraim, Hidyat¡ ¦s boy (the brethren pastor in Lahore of those olden days)  who has done well for himself here raising two families of 2 each from his former and now present wife. One of them now had produced a grand daughter so things move on! He is leader a small fellowship group under his leadership. He says Hidayat remains active in Lahore now running a Jeep with a driver but out 8-10 hours a day in his role as Elder Brother. So the fruit of that early ministry continues and grows.

Monday afternoon a visit down the Causeway linking Bahrain with Saudhi Arabia; the time taken to reach Al Khoba, on the Saudi side, about one hour. You go so far; then comes the main immigration area where there is an observation tower tea and snacks etc so did the tour thing as there is not much that people here can do to escape off the Island. They are planning on to do the same to Qatar, building another but longer causeway in the other direction.  Then went on for a meal together at a Lebanese restaurant kebab type food, Greek salad etc. We have appreciated the link with these people old Indian friends. The causeway has increased various aspects of trade here in Bahrain making this the Bangkok of the Gulf. Large numbers of women have been brought in for dubious practices.

We had a meal with the American Dr who heads things up in the hospital. He announced in the Church on Sunday night that the hospital dispenses 70.000 dinars worth of charitable help about 210,000 C$. The Church members contribute  BD 5000 from their offerings. The hospital has gone through upgrades to make it more in touch with the Bahrain of today. It  has celebrated 100 years of ministry here in the Gulf. A very different place to that when Zwemer and others came era.  The Dr is a good man in the conventional missionary mould who has done a lot to bring the hospital up to the more modern standards needed to survive in the climate of today; interesting to find common links through the involvements in Mission. He is a contemporary of Tom and Cynthia Hale in New York ex Nepal, also links into Fuller and those associations.

I was out, Thurs morning,  with a group of men from the other Awali church, largely Sth African. Interesting discussion about spirit power amongst Bahrainis they work with. One Bahraini colleague at their work place complaining of lack of sleep due to a choking sense of hands around his throat at night. Others who brought charms to yield off evil influences following a car accident. So, as I thought, folk Islam really strong amongst the Iranian element here. Coming from Sth Africa these men are more familiar with these things.

An interesting evening with an American Dr couple previously in Zululand for about 20 years. Began with the mission but then moved over to secular employment there so as to be closer to the National Church. However in the end conditions became impossible due to govt restrictions so accepted this post here. Family now grown so looking for new potential. He is ordained in the Methodist Church; has Fuller background but did not finish his final thesis so missed out on the MA. But interested in involvement in the Muslim world or teaching in incarnational mission or other missiological concepts. She is a teacher but willing to upgrade with more studies.  Very different to the night before when we were with the big American Dr here, a very fine man, but never learnt Arabic so not at all integrated locally. They live in a very different style to these others!

On Thursday night to an Indian Malayalee Dr who is very friendly.  This is a childless couple who might even be interested in stint in Canada for the experience. He is an accountant. All these people have horror stories of those who have sought to migrate but met various blockages along the way.

Lunch with the Arab touch linked with Joe Haider. I told him I was interested in an Arab meal so this is his response. Joe is the quintessential local Bahraini Christian who is accepted by the Sheikh as the Christian liaison man. He has developed a good life style by being the anchor man for 8 or more operations all of which pay him their retainer. His children well married in Miami and Dubai with a son here. Basically a good man who has not exploited his contacts in ways that many Indians or Pakistanis would do in similar circumstances. His wife did not come which is too bad as both Janette and Anup's wife Subu were there.

On Friday after the service to the Bapco ( oil company) Club. A magnificent lunch buffet in somewhat crowded conditions for BD 4 a head about $12. In contrast to the higher dining at the British Club BD 12 a head or about $C36 along with two bottles of wine. Our host an electrical engineer involved in project design who has been recalled a number of time back as well as having worked in Libya. Again the complication of family back in India as his two boys are moving up into the engineering training at this period in life. More relative networks than we would have to cope. His wife spending time back in Bangalore leaving him here on his own.  Most of the Malayalees in the Church are in the 5-600 BD range or about $C1500-1800 a month. Local laborers are in the 40-100 range more like the Nepalis or 120-300. Expats 1-2000 or $C3000-6000 monthly with other privileges thrown in housing etc.

More classic cultural happenings with Pakistanis who want house meetings around their Birthday and other celebrations with the Pastor giving the Blessing. I am learning some of the dynamics of the traditional pastor trade! Quite new to me but no doubt very familiar in your reparte. Not yet progressed to donning the choga and presiding at the liturgical communions but that may even arrive! The once a month traditional liturgical communion is taken by a Mar Thoma man thankfully!

Met up with Ephraim the son of Bro Hidyat in Lahore. He has done well here employment wise; now has a son and grand daughter both born locally. He is running a small house church type setup. We expect a big Pakistani meal at some stage to which he brother will also come. Numbers of people of this type around but they cannot get local citizenship. Others who are married to Bahrainis as second wives and then are absorbed into the country mostly poorer Filippino Muslims and Indians from Hyderabad.

All sorts of weird distortions are apparent here, like Saudhis who buy up apartments to use as weekend hideouts coming across the causeway. A maid is hired to look after the place and then expected to offer all services on weekends to them and their friends when liquor and sex prevail. In Dubai Indians of India are buying up apartments (foreign investment!) to avoid paying income tax. These are investments made with money which otherwise would go into the tax man's pocket. If and when these bubbles burst there will be huge changes around these parts. However it has gone on over these past 25 years without halt so will continue on into the future. Huge blocks of office building are being built 3 or 4, 80 storey towers, an international trade and banking centre etc etc. Convention centres and the like for the Doha round etc. with no local taxes or labor laws to protect the exploited almost slave labor; anything is possible even garment factories to compete with China and B Desh!

More classic cultural happenings with Pakistanis who want house meetings around their Birthday and other celebrations with the Pastor giving the Blessing. I am learning some of the dynamics of the traditional pastor trade! Quite new to me but no doubt very familiar in your reparte. Not yet progressed to donning the choga and presiding at the liturgical communions but that may even arrive! The once a month traditional liturgical communion is taken by a Mar Thoma man thankfully!

Met up with Ephraim the son of Bro Hidyat in Lahore. He has done well here employment wise; now has a son and grand daughter both born locally. He is running a small house church type setup. We expect a big Pakistani meal at some stage to which he brother will also come. Numbers of people of this type around but they cannot get local citizenship. Others who are married to Bahrainis as second wives and then are absorbed into the country mostly poorer Filippino Muslims and Indians from Hyderabad.

All sorts of weird distortions are apparent here, like Saudhis who buy up apartments to use as weekend hideouts coming across the causeway. A maid is hired to look after the place and then expected to offer all services on weekends to them and their friends when liquor and sex prevail. In Dubai Indians of India are buying up apartments (foreign investment!) to avoid paying income tax. These are investments made with money which otherwise would go into the tax man's pocket. If and when these bubbles burst there will be huge changes around these parts. However it has gone on over these past 25 years without halt so will continue on into the future. Huge blocks of office building are being built 3 or 4, 80 storey towers, an international trade and banking centre etc etc. Convention centres and the like for the Doha round etc. with no local taxes or labor laws to protect the exploited almost slave labor; anything is possible even garment factories to compete with China and B Desh!

Dick Westra the American pastor here has done a good job in building up both the traditional and now a more contemporary Friday group. He has preached a good biblical message encouraging them to reach out as well as build up the local congregation. All are migrants here although some like Ephraim now have children and grand children born here so more than just migrant workers.. There are strong local Indian groups but their inability to bring in full time workers has both strengths and weaknesses. Overall a lot of money is going from here to support workers in India some say up to 3000. A local man invited here can take home 800BD which is enough to support him for a whole year if he is careful. Village people migrating here and working at the bottom of the labor market for BD 40 or so a month still send enough home to build a house and make for some sort of better old age even though it all seems like slave labor and exploitation.

The environment is in many ways unreal as they are building and living here like in the days of Noah as if the world will never end. Huge apartment blocks they say sold out before they are built. Most of it on speculation as in HKG as all want to get rich quick thinking the bubble cannot burst.

So in its own way a bit of an Alice in Wonderland kind of place with its Mad Hatters and Tin Men! In the meantime the Indians go on about their daily business making hay while the sun continues to shine!